Thursday, July 1, 2010

Selon Hemingway


I have always been drawn to the sea. There is something about the water that has a way of cleaning and restoring new life. Whether it be the California beaches, the rivers of Vermont, or the harbor in Bretagne; I have an affinity to the power of the sea.

For the past few day I have been obsessed with watching the changing of the tide in the harbor in this "petit" village. When I wake in the morning and head to the beach, the tide has drawn itself so far back into the sea that it leaves the boats dry on the sand in the harbor. It gives a ghost town like look to the habor, as if the boats had been abandoned for years. Even on the beach, the shore line goes almost a kilometer to the water line. However, around 19:00 the tide slowly begins to make its way back to shore. Slowly the level of the water in the harbor gets deeper and deeper until all the boats are once again supported by the sea. Finally, when the sun finally begins to set (which during the summer in Bretage does not begin until 22:00) the tide has successfully recovered the shore, covering any "naked" patches and brings full life into the harbor.

I have always questioned the effects of the tide, and the relationship between the water and the moon... but why are its effects so much more profound in this part of the world? Why does the tide leave the harbor exposed during the day but remembers to gently cover it at night?

Yesterday, I finished reading Hemingway's A Moveable Feast. While he talks about his séjours in Paris with such passion and great detail, he did not formally write them down until several years later while he was living in Cuba. There is a moment when Hemingway confesses that "maybe away from Paris I could write about Paris as in Paris I could write about Michigan". While I have wanted to keep an active blog during my stay in Paris, I have been unable to find the time and the words to write about my experiences "in the moment". Maybe it won't be until weeks or even years after I return to the US until I can appropriately put in words the many wonderful experiences that this city has given me.

Tomorrow I leave la belle Bretagne and return to the "city of lights" and begin an new job for the next three weeks. My stay in Paris is almost over. However, I am truly happy that I chose to rest an extra few months for the summer. It has given me time to truly absorb the culture and spirit of the city that I would have not otherwise have been given.

At the end of his narrative Hemingway concludes:

"There is never any ending to Paris and to the memory of person who has lived in it differs from that of any other. We always returned to it no matter who we were or how it was changed or with what difficulties, or ease, it could be reached. Paris was always worth it and you received return to whatever you brought to it."

While my stay is not yet finished, I have been honored by every passing day in this city. Every encounter and interaction will serve as a memory that will guide me back. When? Like the tide that gently makes it way back to the shore, only time will tell.

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

En Bretagne


I now know that there is a reason that I chose to study the French language. Every part of this country calls me to return. Wants me to stay. I first fell in love in vineyard valleys in the South of France and returned to absorb the cosmopolitan façon de vivre in Paris. I am currently in the marin coast of Bretagne (Brittany), in which I overlook a boat-lined harbor filled with cafés and crêperies offering mussels, oysters, and other fruits de la mer (the specialty of the region).

A few days ago, I started reading, A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway. A Moveable Feast is Hemingway's personal memoirs and stories of his life in Paris as a young and unknown artist and writer who is (also) inspired by the beauty of the French lifestyle. Hemingway explains his experiences with such honest simplicity that I feel is the true ésprit to this country.

"But Paris was a very old city and we were young and nothing was simple there, not even poverty, nor sudden money, nor the moonlight, nor right and wrong nor the breathing of someone who lay beside you in the moonlight".

As I began reading his work, I found myself overcome with emotion. Here I was reading a passage about the Luxembourg Gardens, while I was, myself, sitting on a bench overlooking the fountains of the Jardins du Luxembourg. There seems to be a collective spirit in Paris; many of his journeys and observations in the Place St. Michel and cafés on the Boulevard St. Germain I had previously made during my séjours in Paris. I now understand why so many Americans are draw to this particular city in Europe. This "hunger" for Paris can only be found when you, yourself can walk along its streets and find a home in one of its intimate cafés.

I honestly do not know why I chose to start taking French. Maybe it was a calling of sorts. That I needed to live and explore in this country. By the end of this summer I will have collectively spent a year in France (between the time before I started at Middlebury and during this semester abroad). While I know that this part of my journey is almost over. I know I will return. I must return.



Thursday, May 6, 2010

Paris au Printemps

Pont des Arts, 1e


Marc Monceau, 17e

Place des Vosages, 4e

Oberkampf, 11e

Menilmontant, 19e

Belleville, 19e

Parce de Belleville, 19e

Parc de Belleville, 19e

Rue de Belleville, 19e

Rue de Belleville, 19e

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, 19e

Notre Dame, 1e

Jardin des Plantes, 5e

Musée de l'Orangerie, 1e

Charcuterie, 45 rue des dames

Sacré Coeur, 18e


Et ben, well I failed at keeping a better update of my blog.
However, my spring break in Paris ended up being just what I needed.
I was able to explore so much more of the city... Plus the weather was absolutely perfect.

Des pique-niques et du soleil c'est tous il faut!


Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Tant pis, Je suis à Paris.


Due to the unfortunate circumstances with the closing of all the airports in Paris... my plans to travel to Spain and Morocco fell through... Dommage.

However, within the past two days I have been able to see more of Paris than ever before. I have found new alley ways, new cafés, new parks, and beautiful new restaurants... just by taking to time to wander and get lost.

Paris au printemps is truly a beautiful sight. I am so excited to continue to have the extra time to "profite" and enjoy this city from a new perspective. Since I will have the extra time, I also hope to document more of my experiences and new "findings".

For example,
I just got back from my favorite new restaurant. Chez Janou. This "bistrot provençal" is located in a one of my favorite quartiers. The food was "magnifique" and the atmosphere was relaxed and "familial". I shared an entrée of "tomates rôtis avec chèvre" (roasted tomatoes with goat cheese) and for the plat principal "bar grillé" (grilled sea bass served with a side of ratatouille) and to finish une "mousse au chocolat" (enough said).

It is restaurants like this that truly define the cuisine culture in Paris.

Check out there wonderful website and make sure you watch their "film"!
http://www.chezjanou.com/

Saturday, March 27, 2010

We will always have Paris...

I just finished the film "Casablanca" for the first time and felt inspired to share a few words.

This past week I finally made it to the "Maison Européenne de la Photographie". These were some of my favorite photos by the artist Elliott Erwitt that I feel describe both "la vie à Paris" and "la vie Provinciale" in France.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Vacances d'Hiver
















Et voilà. Photos de mes vacances dans le Sud. Merci beaucoup à Lisa et Helen!

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Je reviens.



Je reviens. A little over two years ago I found myself in a small little village in the south west corner mountains of France in between Montpellier and Beziers. I had just graduated from high school and never traveled alone, especially not out of the country. I took a chance and found a little farm happily titled, "La Ferme d'Art" (The Art Farm). I had absolutley no consception or expectations of my responsbilities or where in the world I would be living for the next two months. However, when I arrived I was welcomed and embraced into the lives of many of the people of the village, not just the people I came to know at The Art Farm. Over those months I came to know the history of the valley, the extreme beauty of the southern sunset, how to compost and feed chickens, but most importantly I grew to learn how to embrace life with every moment and every individual that is brought in front of you. When I left I told myself and everyone in the village that I would return and that I would see them again. Firstly because I am not very good as saying "good-bye", but also because I knew that there was a part of myself that I would be leaving in this valley.

Now after returning to the States and finally beginning my "academic life" at Middlebury, I am sitting back in this same valley. Taking the bus back up these familiar roads I remembered the beauty of the Hérault mountains and the sight of endless vineyards. There was an anxious nervousness inside me, like returning home from a year at Middlebury. I was anxious to see what changes were made and anxious to catch up on unfinished conversations.

The moment I knocked on the door to Lisa's "post office" apartment it was like stepping back in time and I was greeted with whole heart into home. Lisa is like no one I have ever met. She welcomes anyone into her life and makes them feel at home without judgment. Everyone in this village admires her and waits for the next time they can get together with her. If it had not been for meeting Lisa, my experiences in this valley would not have been the same. She makes the sun shine brighter in this small unchartered village. I am so happy that over the years we have kept in contact, whether it be by email or world adventures in New York City or Paris.

On my first night back I shared a beautiful dinner and drank plentiful amounts of the wonderful local wine with some old familiar faces, and of course some new ones as well. Today I spent the day with Lisa's friend Helen, also another wonderful and welcoming American ex-pat, and we prepared a full Mexican lunch (complete with homemade flour tortillas, salsa, guacamole, and carne asada). I then spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the village and on the banks of the River Orb enjoying the beauty of this hidden valley and watching the sunset on the mountains with Helen on her porch drinking warm tea. While I enjoy the cosmopolitan life in Paris, I am admire and am drawn to the simplicity and stillness of the "countryside".

I look forward to the rest of my weekend with Lisa and my old friends in this valley.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

MIDD Kid à Paris



Oui, c'est vrai, Middlebury me manque... (de temps en temps)

Cuisiner

A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to participate in a cooking workshop organized by Middlebury. The evening was filled with fine French cuisine, wonderful wine, and great conversation. To top it off the woman's apartment was on the 8th story of a building that looks over the Jardins de Luxembourg (my favorite park in Paris) with a panoramic view of the entire city: Eiffel Tower and Tour Montparnasse on one side and the Pantheon, Sarbonne, and the Seine on the other. Truly a once in lifetime dining experience.

Et voilà quelques photos de la soirée de belle cuisine.



Preparation of the "Champignons farcis" and "Profiterols"
"Magrets de canard"


Kir de caissis
La soupe: "Potage crème de panais" (Vegetable soup with scallops)

L'entrée: "Gratin des pommes des terres"L'assiette

Le plat principal: "Magret de canard" et "Haricots verts" (Duck and Green Beans)


Le dessert: "Profiterols" avec "Glace à la vanille" faites à la maison
(Profiterols and Home-made vanilla ice-cream)

Bon appétit!